Tavern Time Has Come - The New "Russell Tavern"

While some may morn the disappearance of Z Bar on the corner of Brattle and JFK in Harvard Square, the culture of Cambridge is embracing its newest establishment, Russell Tavern. If you weren't looking for it, you would most likely walk by and not even realize what lay behind its brick exterior. A small white square on the glass door with 'Russell Tavern' marks the modest exterior, but once inside the door, cheery hostesses greet you by a beautiful wooden bar. A chalk board outlines the day's raw bar offering and tap beers. Dimly lit glass and wooden cabinets are filled with liquors and beers creating an atmosphere reminiscent of a different time on a different continent.


The soft leather-backed chairs allow guests to relax while sipping on house bottled still or sparkling water and munching on soft, chewy bread with dipping oil as they wait in anticipation for such scrumptious dishes as steak frites, pork trio, seared Blue Fish, WAIT, HOLD UP! Blue Fish?! Was I really so lucky to see it on a menu! I had to try it and it did not disappoint. Blue Fish is a very tricky fish to clean. There is an oil sack which, if punctured, creates an extremely oilly flesh and off odder. This fish was perfect. Pan seared crispy skin, flavorful flesh that was moist and without the wrecker of excessive oiliness. The slaw it was served with provided subtle amounts of acid from the oranges and vinegar to clean the palate and prepare you for another explosive bite of Blue Fish.

The only downer to the evening, once we ordered wine from the extensive drink menu, was our waiter's need for additional training time before he started manning tables on his own for the eatery's opening week. A lack of insight to questions on the menu and knowledge about special items of the night started him off on the wrong foot and his slow demeanor made him seem slightly incompetent.

All in all, I would for sure go back, if for nothing else then to have a great glass of Meritage when the need for my Blue Fish fix strikes!